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For Blog Action Day-15th October 2009

To the organizers of the Blog Action Day,
Thank you very much for selecting such a relevant topic and also inviting a lesser mortal like me to participate in this mega event.

It has been long since I have written in my blogs page, but I am unable to resist to your invitation to write about climate change on the Blog Action Day.

The day I received your invitation in the first week of October 2009, the local newspaper was flooded with the news of a recent earthquake and tsunami in the region. Tsunami batters Pacific islands, Sumatra quake toll crosses 500 and Fear of unspent strain beneath South Asia. The third topic summarised the underlying cause of the massive upheavals taking place on the Earth surface and at times under the sea in the region. I am sure many such events are taking place in the world in the recent times causing concern not only to the scientists and intellectuals but even to the average people like me. Has such events increased in number lately or is it just that the media has become more active and conscious about ecology and environment. But the fact remains, that a time has come, to increase the awareness about the damage we are doing to the environment sometimes consciously and on other occasion inadvertently. We must note the effect, the changes taking place and try our best to reduce the damage and if possible to take some corrective measures.

In this respect I would like to take this opportunity to share my experience with you and your readers about a phenomenon taking place in the Indian subcontinent which I am trying to follow and record to my best ability.

I got an opportunity to explore Andaman and Nicobar Islands, a rather remote area of the Indian Territory in the Bay of Bengal. The natural beauty of the twin archipelagos was breathtaking, the anthropological wealth mind boggling and finally, the richness and the diversity of flora and fauna of the region was unfathomable. Incidentally, many islands of the twin archipelagoes were occupied for long for various purposes by the European community and the Japanese (during Second World War) till as late as the middle of the twentieth century. The history of the place is also thus quite interesting. I was flabbergasted by the overall experience of my stay there.

A massive tsunami caused havoc in the region on the morning hours of 26^th Decenber 2004. Over two hundred thousand people perished in the subcontinent in eleven countries. Nicobar Islands my dream destination, was devastated by the catastrophe. As the population of the remote district was comparatively less, loss of over ten thousand human lives in the entire archipelago attracted less attention of the world in comparison to the total loss of lives in the event in other zones.

I was astounded by the wrath of Nature which I noticed in The Nicobar Islands during my visits to the archipelago following tsunami. Due to a possible tilt in the ocean plate many areas of several islands were submerged. Sea had engulfed vast areas of some islands. As almost all the inhabited islands had flat terrain with little elevation they easily got inundated by the submersion of the land.

Majority of the villages were located right on the coast causing high percentage of loss of lives as huge waves washed the localities with unprecedented fury. The people were not aware of such events and have never heard of such a phenomenon excepting in the religious and mythological stories. Majority of the villages on the coast were devastated and the resultant social changes following the event was unimaginable.

The islands of the region particularly the Nicobar group were protected by the coral reefs around them which had grown around the islands for many hundred years. Only gentle waves reached the shores because of the natural barrier. Giant waves of tsunami had uprooted the coral reefs and thrown huge chunks on the interior of the islands thus exposing the soft coast to the sea. Giant monsoon waves are now easily approaching the coast causing erosion of the islands.

I would like to share with you few photographs of the archipelagoes which I have managed to capture during my visits.

A Pre-Tsunami view of the Grub Island.

Post-Tsunami (July 05)

Grub Island situated in the Mahathma Gandhi Marine National Park has remained intact but has lost much of its spectacular sandy beaches. In fact, the gradual change in the topography of the beach of the island during the post-tsunami period has provided a good opportunity to study the continuing readjustment of the Ocean plate. One half of the circular beach all around the island was lost immediately after tsunami (see photograph Jul’05) due to a significant tilt of the Ocean plate. However, the serial photograph captured in Mar’07 shows that the shape of the beach has changed further and has now become tongue-shaped, possibly due to a reduction in the tilt of the Ocean plate and further submersion of the island.

A Pre-Tsunami view of the Car Nicobar Island.

A Post-Tsunami view of the Car Nicobar Island.

The southern end of the Car Nicobar Island, during pre-tsunami period, extended well into the sea. As is evident from the post-tsunami photograph, the sea has engulfed this extended end to a great degree blunting the tip. The giant Tsunami waves on that fateful day caused some changes, while at a later date, gradual soil erosion has caused further changes in the shape. The coastal greenery has been completely washed away by the giant Tsunami waves. However, the dense mixed jungle at the centre of the island has remained unaffected. The sea waves, post tsunami are larger and causing extensive soil erosion.

A Pre-Tsunami view of Kakana beach of Car Nicobar. Coral reefs are visible in the foreground.

Post-Tsunami

Car Nicobar Island used to have a protective coral reef ring all around during the pre-tsunami period. The strength of the sea waves would abate while crossing the reef and only gentle waves would reach the shore. As the corals got completely uprooted and thrown on the land by the giant waves of Tsunami, the seashore now lies completely exposed. Uninterrupted huge monsoon waves are now hitting the coastline with tremendous fury causing unbelievable erosion of the coastline everyday. Kakana beach, which used to have gentle waves due to coral reefs, is now being battered by giant waves.

I hope you have enjoyed this presentation.
I am publishing books describing the natural wealth of the archipelagoes and the effect of tsunami in the Andaman and Nicobar Islands. I would like to share my entire experience and photographs with the readers. I would be grateful for suggestions and guidance in this respect from your viewers in my endeavour.

At the very outset I must apologize for the long break in writing my blog.
Often I may have the time but struggle to find the right mood to express a deeper feeling.

It is easy to misunderstand the attitude of the people of Goa.
But I feel it is not that simple to understand a culture and the philosophy of their existence. It is not fair to judge everybody with one’s own yardstick. I have used a word Sosegado which is actually the essence of Goan existence. I would like to elaborate on that before I progress further.

I had read somewhere many years ago, a Goan had described the actual meaning of socegado – I liked the passage and copied it at that time. I would like to reproduce it (though it is not my piece and now I don’t even remember from where I had collected it). But the description is unparalleled and I wanted to share it with everybody.

Moreover I believe only a Goan has the right to explain the meaning of the word.
He writes

‘The mystic of ‘Socegado’

The tourist on his first visit to Goa is bound to hear the word ‘Socegado’ perhaps several times a day, uttered by several people on several vastly different occasions. It is indeed a baffling word and to date, nobody has come out with a synonym for the word. A Goan would be puzzled that you need to explain ‘socegado’ for to the true blue Goan it is as elementary as the sun or the sea.

The nearest substitute would be’ leisure’ but admittedly it is a poor substitute. It falls grievously short of the splendid connotation of the Goan word. It denotes a sense of lethargy but devoid of the stigma of torpidity or sluggishness. It could mean ‘take it easy’ but without invoking the cardinal fault of procrastination. It is perhaps a little bit of both these attributes combined with a sense of timelessness that lifts it above the level of laziness.

It is an extremely practical acceptance of the impossibility of cramming everything into today coupled with a cheerful , optimistic consciousness of tomorrow to come. It is the Goan’s invariable rejoinder to any attempt to rush him into anything. It symbolizes the leisurely pace of life even to which the brakes are applied almost in toto for the afternoon siesta when all Goa slumbers blissfully.

When you can, with a clear conscience, leave the file in the tray marked ‘URGENT’ and take off to a ‘taverna’ or bar, savour your glass of local feni and breathe the atmosphere of relaxation then you are possibly coming closer to the mystery of ‘socegado’.

Incidentally, feni is a typical Goan brew made from the coconut palm or the cashew fruit. It is definitely not for the faint hearted, it is a taste to be acquired. It is said that once you do acquire the taste for feni, no other liquor can compare with its full bodied frothy flavour. And once a feni lover, always a feni lover. Then you have moved a further step closer to mastering the mystery of ‘socegado’.

Do not however try to force the pace, for that is against the very spirit of ‘socegado’.
It is tranquility and total willingness.
It is indeed the Goan way of life.’

What do you think, my friends?
Is’nt it very confusing and unrealistic in the context of modern world living.

But fortunately or unfortunately that is what prevails in the Goan society, good or bad, they love to enjoy life in their own way. Money is needed all right, but plays a little less role in their state of happiness.
It is indeed a different world all-together.

It belongs possibly to moon and possibly that is why moon looks so closer from there,
almost within telepathic distance.

Tilak Ranjan Bera | 28^th October’08

No my description of Arambol cannot be yet over.
How can it, it was only the afternoon when I left you to take the compulsory afternoon break which is popularly described as socegadu by the Goans; when everything stops including one’s mind.

Socegado

This is a very complex subject and a word incomprehensible for the many non-Goans. Probably you won’t even find it in any dictionary, but the Goan dictionary ends with that one word. However, as and when I find the time, I would like to deal with the subject of socegado in a little more detail. Please excuse me for the time being while I indulge in it for a bit.

Beach football

As you get up from your afternoon slumber you see the tired evening sun leisurely descending down on the western sky. A group of young men gather in front in the beach and start kicking the football which I believe is the most popular game of the world for obvious reason. It does matter where one is born, everyone enjoys this fascinating game. Neither does one need much paraphernalia to enjoy the madness playing this magnificent game. Any circular object will suffice, be it a coconut, or when available a leather ball. That’s it. There after it is time for total fun and happiness.

But if you watch carefully the boys having an enjoyable football match on the beach in Arambol you may notice something interesting. The two teams are almost always from different continents. Their skin colour maybe different as maybe their attitude towards life and their basic requirements; but it does not matter as long as the ball is being kicked while in the fading dusk, the sun provides just enough illumination for the exercise.

I mean, you will soon realize that on the beach it is an European team is up against a local Goan side. An official encounter between an European football team and an Indian team is rare in this part of the world but an unofficial match is on every evening in Arambol during winter months.

A large number of tourists in Arambol are from Europe (almost all) and many of them spend a long time there. The crowd that usually gathers there probably is not very busy in their own world and has found the time to spend in leisure. It is very much like the Goans themselves.

Amongst the tourists, many recognises the opportunity and will set up a local business. The Goans will accommodate them and they have an earning to sustain themselves for a long periods. Be it a shop, a restaurant, a resort, a bakery and one has even started an unique super market. I’ll describe Ingo in detail in a future blog.

If you have the time to spare for yourself and for Mother Nature, Arambol is the place for you. Even if you are amongst those whom this materialistic world does not recognize as a wealthy and, or, a valuable person. but you will indeed be the fortunate one.

To be able to spend your leisure with the rising moon.

The Goan moon

The moon will nevertheless emerge on the eastern sky at dusk, and will communicate exclusively with you in a language which nobody else will understand. You will feel human existence in this world has its worth. Unfathomable peace prevails there as you imbibe the moonlight which percolates through the foliage onto the beach and to the roaring sea.

Your soul by then will have been tranquilized by the world around you.
You ask it to move, to leave, to return home.
It will say, “no, never again”.

Tilak Ranjan Bera | 01 October’08

  

Arambol

may mean nothing to many, it means nothing less than a ‘Heaven on Earth’ to many others.

In fact, of even the regular tourists a large number would not even know this place as it is not amongst the many popular beaches of Goa. But to many others, there are no other place in Goa they know, and they would like to spend all their leisure time there.

A narrow lane meanders through the curio shops as it approaches the beach. The lane shrinks so much as you progress, that eventually you cannot even turn your vehicle. You will feel a fool if you have landed in Arambol in a four wheeler. The administrative authorities are oblivious of the problem and are not concerned about develop a parking space near the beach (like all other beaches of Goa) as they feel it is not a requirement.

Those who, with abundance of wealth, own a car and only likes to travel in their vehicle, are better advised not go to that place. There are many other destinations more suitable for them in Goa, and most of them offer much better materialistic comfort for a stay; including many star resorts.

At this stage, it will be most unfair if I deny you the pleasure and the experiences of the beaches of Goa. I am tempted to take you to Arambol an ‘out of the world’ beach destination in Goa. The tiny State of Goa on the west coast of India is primarily famous for its magnificent golden beaches. With the influx of tourists in Goa many of them are now proud to have star resorts. I, very carefully, avoid staying in such places and often will avoid visiting those well known places.

Fortunately for me, and for many others, Goa still possesses many remote locations which still has only basic infrastructure and offers just the minimum facilities to survive and exist. Materialistic comfort is an absolute ‘No No’ there. Arambol is one such place; it still retains the look of a pure and primitive tourist destination ‘of the seventy’s Goa’. Peace prevails undiluted and in abundance.

I took sometime before introducing you all to a beach in Goa, as I feel, to enjoy a place one must have an idea of the heart and the mind of the people of that place. It is said that ‘beauty is only skin deep’; you enjoy the beauty of a lady much more when you can smell the aroma which comes from her heart. Only then you enjoy her beauty, even if she may not be beautiful to the eye of others. So I had to tell about the hearts of the people of this place before I take you to her seaside cottage.

After you manage to find a place for yourself, you walk down the lane to have a glimpse of the sea, the reason you have come to Goa and to Arambol. The rule here is to hire a small hut or a room for a family and a two wheeler for travel. Only a two wheeler can negotiate the by-lanes of this wonderland. You park the exhausted vehicle like a king (or a sage) in front of your dilapidated hut and enjoy your time like a Shahensha, even if with a little money.

Yes, Arambol has everything for the king of hearts and very little for the modern day materialistic executives.

As you approach the beach you see a cluster of restaurants, some single story and some double with a romantic balcony on top, from where one can enjoy the activities on the beach throughout the day. You see a variety of water-sports – surfing, water-scooter ride, para-sailing. You see people returning from a swim in the sea, clothes soaked in water and their minds completely soaked in happiness.

You seep beer from a mug and relax!

Excuse me while I briefly enjoy the visual of my memories of my beer and a deliciously fried Macarel Recheacdo. It has remained deeply imprinted in my mind and surfaces every time I think of that place. I feel like going into a trance of ‘socegado’.

Mid-afternoon is just the right time and Arambol is the perfect place.

Tilak Ranjan Bera | 26th September 2008

An Indian philosopher Sri Ramakrishna once said ‘Taka mati, mati taka’ ( money is nothing but earth and earth is money). Hindu philosophy preaches of a human existence where money plays only a secondary role. Incidentally, Ramakrishna was from my state West Bengal and the organization which has come up in his name Ramakrishna Mission to preach his philosophy to serve the needy community wherever and whenever possible.

It is almost impossible for the common man and the mass to follow this philosophy in the modern materialistic community existence. Though there are some individuals in this world, however small may be their number and regardless of their nationality, still do believe in it. This materialistic world on the other hand demands acquiring more wealth by the individual, for social status, than is required for comfortable existence. In fact, our status within the family is often determined by the quantity of wealth you possess. This initiates a rat race in the society. And this social and environmental effect grips almost everyone. And almost the entire world is trapped in this rat race to a great extent. Many states of India are also not immune to it.

In Goa, I experienced a society where this rat race is much less palpable, and almost the entire society believed in a happy and peaceful existence, where money played a lesser role than we are used to in other parts of the world.

They have more time for religious activities irrespective of the religion they followed (Hindu or Chritianity) . Faith serves an important role for such existence and for calming the mind. It also prevents one from getting distracted by the importance of materialistic comfort for happy existence.

The mass there is born and brought up in such an environment that they do not feel the compulsion of running after the wealth. It is amazing to see how the entire community gets involved in the religious and many other annual social functions. Even the youth participates in large number and whole heartedly in all the religious activities. It is amazing to note how much time they have and devote for all such events.

As they are not after the money, they pursue their activities with much intensity; be it music, dance, football or cooking. They are very passionate about such things as they exist for their pleasure and  so enjoys it to the maximum. They do it because they love it and many of them pursue their passion as their profession. Some of them achieve high standard as they manage to blend a lot of passion into their work. But it ought to be a work of his choice, be it cooking, fishing or driving.

A good percentage of Goan give priority to his enjoyment while working, over the amount of money he earns. I know a Goan ‘Pilot’ (a motorcycle rider available for hire) who preferred to continue his job as he enjoys riding motorcycle even when a bank offered him loan for buying a taxi. He could have earned much more, he chose not to.

Not many such people now exist in this modern world and not many places where the majority still believes in it.

Contentment, in Goa, is the rule rather than an exception.

 

Tilak Ranjan Bera | 21 September ’08

It was rather unusual  for an Indian travel freak like me not to visit Goa till I was thirtyfive. Goa is certainly considered as one of the most beautiful and enjoyable tourist destinations of India by the domestic as well as the foreign visitors.

In fact, my first trip to Goa was not for tourism. I carefully avoid going to established tourist places as I prefer to avoid large crowd the presence of whom interferes with my interaction with nature.  I like solitude and thus search for a virgin place and fortunately there are still many such corners in this wonderful country. Like a fool I had presumed Goa could not be one amongst them till I actually arrived within the territory of the state.

I had received a posting order to Goa and I was appointed as the Ophthalmic Surgeon of the Naval Hospital located in Vasco-Da-Gama, the port town of Goa.  As the famous Portuguese adventurer and explorer played a key role in establishing Portuguese colonies in the west coast of India in the early sixteenth century, the port town of Goa  is named after him. I boarded a train from Delhi for Vasco-Da-Gama.

It was a long and tedious journey in the autumn of 1992. Just before entering the state, I had to change trains onto a metre gauge train for the last stretch of the journey. Metre guage and the narrow guage trains are popularly known as ‘toy trains’ in India as they usually pass through mountain terrain and often for short distances. Journeys in these trains are always very enjoyable and exciting. Many routes existed in the 70′s but now are fast becoming extinct as they are being converted into broad guage railway for commercial convenience.

It was a thoroughly enjoyable journey.
The train started climbing the hills through the magnificent forests as we entered the boundary of Goa. I never could imagine the surprise which was awaiting me ahead. The train gradually slowed down as we  emerged from a long tunnel and finally screeched to a complete halt. As I peeped through the open window towards the west to  inquire about the reason for the halt my glasses were completely fogged by the water droplets gushing through the window.

We had stopped under the Dudhsagar waterfall. ( Dudhsagar meaning ‘Sea of Milk’).

As it was in the post-monsoon period the river was in full spate. It remains as one of the most magnificent experiences of my life. More so, because it was such a surprise as I had no idea that the spot was en-route. I was left speechless by the sight. It was a wonderful wet welcome the state had offered me at our first  encounter.

Thereafter the train passed through the seaside and the magnificent sea stretches that I could see from the train was just amazing. Blue water rolled underneath the track at regular intervals. Only at very few places have I ever enjoyed such wonderful views of the sea from a train.

Photograph: © Tilak Bera

That train journey still remains as one of my most favourite journey. This train route is fast becoming less popular as most of the tourists now prefers to reach Goa by air or by the Konkan railway, which is more convenient for the travellers.  That route still remains as my favourite and I will prefer it during the monsoon months.

With that first glimpse, I had fallen in love with the (yet unknown) natural beauty of this wonderful state of India, Goa.

Tilak Ranjan Bera. | 18 th September.

If I may first try to explain why I am referring to Goa as a Place of Happiness.

We often visit a place primarily to enjoy its natural beauty,
sometimes we visit to appreciate and enjoy the historical and the archeological wealth.
Goa has it all.

Goa has it all

In addition Goa also has an atmosphere of peace and happiness; Goa tranquilizes me with this rare wealth which not many other tourist destination can boast of.  Significantly Goa has managed to retain its unique flavour in spite of becoming a popular tourist destination of the world.

I consider myself fortunate to be born in India.
We are economically a poor country by the modern definition but philosophically no less rich than many developed countries of the world.

Many of us here, even today, do not consider materialistic comfort as the main requirement for happiness. For centuries we have believed in the ethos of ‘karma’, enjoy doing a work and not think of the materialistic return.  It is a difficult concept to follow in the modern time and even more difficult to appreciate  by the western  civilisation.  In fact, urban population of many part of India is now unable to retain this philosophy as their basic ethos of existence.

Fortunately even today there are some pockets in India where majority will still follow this principle.
Their existence is not purely to achieve more and more materialistic comfort but to ‘live in peace’, notwithstanding their financial wealth.

I was born in the state of West Bengal in India where a good percentage of people still live in happiness amidst extreme poverty. I have also lived many years in Goa where I found the people were seldom interested in capitalizing on the commercial opportunities the tourist hub offers. Instead they prefer to be happy in their small sea-front fishing village hut, under the cool shade of the coconut grove.
Whoever manages a bootle of ‘feni’ (a locally brewed liqour) is surely a step closer to Nirvana.

It is difficult for the western population to understand the philosophy and often it is considered as ultimate stupidity resulting from extreme laziness. Many western tourists have utilized the business opportunity here and have started a variety of business and resorts to provide comfort to their fellow country men searching for a suitable place to stay. Many of them have settled down in Goa for the purpose.

The placid state of mind of the local people however does not get disturbed by this phenomenon.
He wants to enjoy his precious life in his own way and accumulation of huge materialistic wealth plays a very little role in the path of his life. He just wants to exist, bare minimum is all he requires for his own existance. It is his peaceful state of mind  which  percholates into every sphere of the atmosphere and which gives a unique flavour to this tiny state of India.

This is what makes Goa such a facinating destination for those who love peace and tranquility.

The Singing Moon on Arambol Beach, North Goa, October 2006 – ©Tilak Bera

To me Goa offers a serene and tranquil atmosphere which is only comparable to the moonlight percolating through the foliage of our minds.

Hence Goa.

Tilak R Bera | 06 Sept’ 08

If I ever have to decide where I want to return for my next life, probably Goa will occupy the top of my list .

Not because it is one of the most beautiful places on Earth I have ever visited or lived in, but for the peace and tranquility it still preserves in its air, and for the simple people who accomodates everyone with an open heart, notwithstanding the fact that it eventually affects their very survival and longivity of their long preserved innocent culture.

A Land of Beyond

In the ancient Hindu literature Goa is referred to as ‘A land of beyond’ and sometimes as ‘ A golden land of beyond’. I realised the meaning of these references only after living there for many years.

Goa exists beyond this modern materialistic world ( though the word ‘beyond’ was used in a different context in the ancient name). So much of unearthly happiness exists there that it remains beyond the comprehension of the materialistic population. To me Goa is a place of ultimate happiness.

I could not resist but explore the state and I immensely enjoyed every bit of it. I want to share my experience about this unique place of happiness with others and that’s the raison d’etre of this blog.

Dr Tilak R Bera | 27th Aug’ 08

The Tsunami of 2004 has caused extensive devastation to the Nicobar Islands.

For me, it was heartbreaking to see the devastation caused by Mother Nature to her own creation. But, perhaps, this is a part of the eternal cycle of existence. Destruction an inevitable component of sustenance.

The Islands of the Andaman and Nicobar archipelago are arranged in a longitudinal North-South axis in a bow shaped manner. I realised that the degree of submersion was more as we went downwards to the southern group of islands.

Andaman Islands were affected less while damage whilst the damage to Nicobar islands had been more severe. In fact, northern Andaman islands have hardly undergone any submersion, only southern Andaman islands have undergone submersion to a certain extent at islands of Jolly Bouy and the Grub.

Nicobar Islands, on the other hand, have suffered extensive damage. Some of the inhabited islands have even become unsuitable for human habitation. Submersion of Car Nicobar Island is less, while, as we go further southwards submersion appears to be more marked.

Central Nicobar islands of Trinket and part of Katchal are no longer suitable for human habitation due to extensive encroachment of the sea. However it it is evident from my aerial photographs that the maximum submersion has taken place in the Great Nicobar Island which is the southernmost island of the territory of India.

The Nicobarese are yet to forget that terrible episode. People have lost their near and dear ones. Villages on the Nicobar Islands had to be relocated, away from the coast to higher grounds, during rehabilitation.

Man survives calamities; he adjusts himself to the catastrophic changes that nature inflicts on him. Death gives way, life triumphs.

Nature too has already started rebuilding herself. Green leaves have started regenerating on the coconut trees, barren fields have started becoming green with grass. The corals, however, will take longer to grow.

The human touch in the regeneration process is also palpable. replantation is in full swing along with the rehabilitation; coconut saplings have been planted all over.

I can see the golden hue in the eastern sky. The darkness after the devastation is unlikely to last for long.

I have seen the Nicobarese at the rehabilitation camps and the relocated villages gradually returning to their normal daily lives. They, once again, are enjoying their favourite sports and games, These are simple people, living in their picturesque and immensely interesting islands. I am sure they will again welcome adventurers with open hearts and innocent smiles.

The sun will rise once again and shine brilliantly on these fascinating emeral islands. Mermaids of legends will again visit these beaches to enjoy the serenity of virgin nature. Life will once again be virile and blossom in colours and forms.

To echo the poet’s words

Oh Wind, if Winter comes, can Spring be far behind?

From:
The Times Of India, Mumbai:
Tuesday, December 26, 2006.

How the bow-shaped islands were bent out of shape

by Nina Martyris

It was like a terrorist attack by nature. Stealthy and shattering; a serving of notice in the most brutal way possible. On December 26, 2004, the Andaman and Nicobar Islands in the Bay of Bengal were transformed from a land of lotus eaters to a human tragedy whose wages we are still trying to make sense of two years later.

Among those devastated by what the tsunami had done was Surgeon Commander Tilak Ranjan Bera, a naval eye doctor who spent a year stationed at Port Blair and fell head and heels in love with the emeral isles, strewn with coral and an innocence that few other honeymoon destinations have.

Bera, who subsequently returned repeatedly to conduct medical camps on the inhabited islands – the Andamans have 550 islands, 24 of which are inhabited – Nicobar consists of 22 islands, 12 of them inhabited. – constantly took pictures of the geographical and human features of the island. Because of this passion, he has in his personal collection a priceless set of photographs of the pre-tsunami state of the islands, which, when juxtaposed with the post-tsunami photographs, reveal the gigantic changes wrought in the topography of the region by the killer wave.

Bera has compiled his years of reserch, interviews and photographs into a large-format book, “Andaman & Nicobar Islands; The Mysterious Bay Islands of India, Pre- and Post-Tsunami“. In the foreward, Ram Kapse, the Lt. Governor of the Islands, writes, “Containing many rare pre-tsunami photographs of the Nicobar islands, this book is certainly going to be an important pictorial document of the rich natural beauty of the islands.”

Jolly Bouy Island:

Two of the most startling juxtapositions are Jolly Bouy Islands and Grub Island. As can be seen from the pictures, Jolly Bouy island has been tilted to the south, and a new sandy beach has emerged at its north-east corner.

Grub Island:

Even more dramatic is the case of Grub Island. Although the island itself has remained intact, the spectacular sandy ring of beach around the it has been completely lost with only a little strip of beach visible in one corner.

Bera is an old Andaman and Nicobar hand. He has already written five books on the island, including “Andamans: The Emerald Necklace of India“, which is in its sixth edition. “The anthropology of these islands is unique,” he says, “and you have to study them in great detail in order to understand them. I had to consult oceanographers, geologists and anthropologists to write this book. I struggled a lot to understand the complexity of the place. Since many of these islands are under protection of the Anthropological Survey of India, you can’t take photographs or pass through without permission. I visited with tribal welfare volunteers who were familiar with the area and the people. I found that the inhabitants are much more healthy than the rest of us. Most don’t know their age. They look so young and so fit. One or two tribes though are suffering from tuberculosis and have fertility problems”.

Bera’s earlier book, written in Bengali, Nicobarer Dwepe Nancowri Ranir Deshe, is perhaps the only book on Nicobar. “While I was in Port Blair, I heard that a Queen ruled on Nancowri Islands for fifty years, right upto 1989, and that Indira Gandhi visited her despite the complicated logistics involved. My Nicobar book talks about the queen,” he says.

His new book is a collage of many aspects of the Islands, both human and natural. These are pictures of the heritage structures of Port Blair from the Cellular Jail to the clock tower built by the British to the old colonial bungalows; there is Viper Jail, where Sher Ali, the assassin of Lord Mayo was hanged; notes on wooden fetishes erected by the tribals to keep bad spirits away; and chapters on the people themselves, the hunter-gatherers and the bee collectors, a charming story of how the Jarawas tribe, hostile to the other groups, was brought around, and a myth busting one on the negrito tribes, who are not cannibals as claimed. They killed intruders out of fear, not for feast.

“I am appealing to the international community that if they have seen any such thing before and managed to prevent an island from being eroded, they should step forward“. – Tilak

The author’s love for his subjects shines through. The book is a way for Bera to reach out to the international community and remind them that these bow-shaped islands still need attention.

“I am appealing to the international community that if they have seen any such thing before and managed to prevent an island from being eroded, they should step forward. Indira Point is being eroded everyday”, he says. “Can we put up a stone wall, should we build jetties, or plant mangroves? We need scientific inputs and I hope the book gets that kind of response”.